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Revues

The Vancouver Sun, May 3, 2007

Comox Valley no longer virgin territory

- Vancouver Island Atlas Café, Martine’s Bistro and Great Escape are all top spots to dine

By Mia Stainsby, Restaurant Critic

The Great Escape was a serendipitous find in sleepy little Cumberland. On a Saturday evening, the main street was all zipped up and slumbering, but the restaurant was bursting with life and music. The young couple behind the restaurant with an urban feel are Nicola Cunha and Jean-Francois Larche.

Cunha, who once catered for the film industry (thus the restaurant’s movie title name) cooks the food she grew up with as a Catholic Indian with some modern tweaks. About 95 per cent of her ingredients are organic, she says. The dishes tend to be mildly spiced.

In fact, the Side Stripe Shrimps in Goan Curry was oddly devoid of spices but the quality of ingredients and clean cooking made up for it; Chicken Makhani is redolent with cardamom, clove and cinnamon. Vegetable Pakoras with Pear Chutney was light and crisp; we gobbled the Tandoori Chicken over Potato Latkes with Yoghurt Sauce. Mango Cheesecake was light and lovely. Also, try the Hornby Island’s Middle Mountain Mead, for local flavour. We were sold on Cumberland prices – starters are $5 to $7 and mains are $10 to $14.

Vancouver magazine February 2007

The Great Escape
Nicola Cunha and Jean-Francois Larche escaped the rigours of the film industry to open a modern Indian restaurant in historic Cumberland.Small but expertly prepared Indian menu, with organic meats and many vegan options. Hand-ground spices and family curry recipes compete with modern flourishes of tandoori chicken over potato latkes or Indian-spiced tamales. Weekend brunch of chocolate challah French toast with cardamon-scented whipped cream is Oscar-worthy. Small wine card includes Hornby Island meads to complement the show.

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